Issue 23, June 15, 2023
Last Week's Top Three Reports!
Most notable stories from last week were…

1.) Truly Magnificent: the Estrela de FURA Ruby!
What happened on Thursday morning at Sotheby's Magnificent Jewels auction in New York was nothing less than spectacular.

2.) Exclusive interview post-auction with:
Dev Shetty, Founder & CEO FURA Gems
“We are very happy,” says an exuberant Dev Shetty, Founder & CEO of FURA Gems. “It’s a new world record for ruby... and any other colored gemstone! And now the benchmark has been set for the Mozambican ruby!”

3.) Manmade Melee, and Russian "Smalls":
Exclusive interview with David Grunberger
David Grunberger of Grunberger Diamonds spoke to us about what it's like to be in the diamond melee business right now, with the manmade diamond discussion and the Russian diamond boycott.

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Now On To This Week's News!
Who Wore What Jewels - Chopard

Days 8 & 9 brought forth the red carpet premiere of ‘La Passion De Dodin Bouffant’ and Chopard’s annual Cannes Film Festival gala/dinner which the luxury brand hosts each year at the festival. It’s a chance to get a glimpse of all the pieces designed by Caroline Scheufele, Chopard’s co-president and artistic director, who chose “art” as the theme for this year’s Red Carpet Collection.


ASHLEY GRAHAM: We knew these looked familiar! Graham’s Chopard earrings featuring ...

State of the Art Jewelry Summit
the Future of the Industry
While academia and technology are at the forefront of sustainability and climate change action-focused strategies, the jewelry industry is still at its infancy on policies, standards, call for actions and measurable solutions. Mining practices and demands are evolving quickly as the energy transition towards a low-carbon economy progresses to reach global agreements and Sustainable Development Goals or SDGs.

Industry standards are changing in line with consumer’s behaviors, and towards a more sustainable and equitable Jewelry industry. As a key player within the supply chain, your business is in a unique position to create change, not only with the power to do so but also with an understanding of the responsibility and the means to take action. 

To discuss the current developments in research, technology, business, and art in Jewelry, and to create, develop and guide the future of our industry collectively ensuring we thrive and remain relevant, the Responsible Jewelry Council (RJC), the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) and the Mineralogical and Geological Museum at Harvard University (MGMH) is pleased to present the first one-day Jewelry Summit in-person and by invitation at Harvard University on 23rd, June 2023. 

TEFAF New York
Boghossian, Hemmerle, Otto Jakob
Among 91 Exhibitors at TEFAF New York 2023
Anthony DeMarco, Senior Contributor

TEFAF New York returns to the Park Avenue Armory with 91 galleries and creators, including five firms that specialize in jewelry, with a couple making their first appearance at the New York event.

The New York art, antique and design fair is a companion to TEFAF Maastricht, the celebrated art fair in The Netherlands, known for its Old Master paintings, antiques and classical antiquities. Both fairs are hosted by The European Fine Art Foundation, a not-for-profit foundation that champions expertise and diversity in the global art community. The New York fair is open to the public May 12 – 16, with a VIP invitation only day May 11.

NAJA’s 60th Annual ACE©it
Mid-Year Education Conference
The National Association of Jewelry Appraisers (NAJA) will be holding its 60th mid-year conference in Providence Rhodes Island, August 12th through the 14th of August.

Conference guest speakers will present the following topics:
Carving out a Space: Cameos, Intaglios, Enamel, and Micromosaic
Pricing and Valuation of Lab Diamonds - What is Retail in this Crazy Market?
The Fair Market for Diamonds
An Insider’s Approach to Diamond Grading
Current Jewelry Trends in the Auction Market
IRS Appraisal Rules for Charitable
... and SO much more.

Philips New York Auction
So many interesting period pieces and gem materials!
So many interesting period pieces and gem materials in this auction.

From a Belperron cuff to Boivin brooches, to a David Webb necklace, a Spaulding cuff, to "black onyx," rock crystal, wood, and even a "color shift"* sapphire!

If you are looking for a fun gem enthusiast's read today, this is it.

British Vogue

It is almost a century since Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel designed her first such jacket in 1925. In the years since it has been made in any number of richly textured and multi-coloured variations, shot through with everything from gold thread, silk and sequins and beading, with more avant-garde offerings realised in wood and concrete.

VicenzaOro - September
The Gold, Jewellery & Watch Community’s Most Eagerly Awaited Event
Vicenzaoro returns from September 8th to 12th, Europe's leading business hub and showcase for the entire industry, together with VO'Clock Privè, the lounge dedicated to watchmaking culture.

Vicenzaoro September is a stage for the best expressions of the sector and the entire gold and jewellery supply chain as well as a showcase for Made in Italy production from the main national manufacturing districts and international excellences.

The variety of the offer is expressed through the industry’s different souls: from high-end jewellery brands in the “Icon” community to the best jewellery production, components and semi-finished products in the “Creation” district; from the diamonds, precious and coloured stones in “Essence” to the contemporary jewellery in the “Look” district, the latest innovative solutions for packaging and visual merchandising in the “Expression” community and the most advanced technologies for production and processing in the “Evolution” area.

House of Harry Winston in Nanjing
The House of Harry Winston, the legendary "King of Diamonds," and international luxury brand, announces the opening of its first retail salon in Nanjing, China. Located inside the Deji Plaza, a prime luxury shopping haven in Xinjiekou, the 213-square meter salon will house Harry Winston's exquisite jewelry and timepiece collections, including the finest diamonds and rarest gemstones available today.

"We are pleased to announce the opening of our new salon in the prestigious Deji Plaza. While this opening marks our first in Nanjing, it is our seventh location in mainland China," said Nayla Hayek, CEO of Harry Winston, Inc. "Nanjing is chief city renowned for its role in research, education and tourism, and today, we are proud to deepen our roots in a city that is known for its rich history and culture, as we continue to bring the Harry Winston brand to new audiences throughout the country.

Why Tiffany & Co is the High Jewellery Brand to Watch

With new leadership and new events, the American jeweller is primed to take over the high jewellery market.

French luxury conglomerate LVMH has been aggressively acquiring luxury’s most desirable names on an almost annual basis since it pocketed Bvlgari in 2011, with Tiffany & Co joining the family in 2020. And the acquisition seems to be beneficial for all — the group reported record sales from the jeweller in 2022 thanks to the success of the Tiffany Lock collection.

But it is Tiffany’s high jewellery revenue that doubled within the last year. The American jeweller, known for extraordinary white diamonds and being the first global jeweller to offer total diamond traceability, is one of the most exciting brands to follow in the high jewellery space, and here’s why.

Gucci’s New High Jewelry Collection
Gucci Allegoria
c/o Gucci
& Rain Magazine

Gucci unveils its latest High Jewelry collection, Allegoria, a mesmerizing homage to the transformative beauty of the seasons. The collection’s unique designs and vibrant gemstones radiate joy and emotion, capturing the essence of nature’s fleeting wonders.
Presented at a special event in Florence, the new High Jewelry collection reflects nature’s transformations and ephemeral beauty through its ever-changing seasons.
Embarking on a journey through the seasons, Allegoria begins with spring, evoking a sense of renewal and surprise. Delicate designs in fresh hues, inspired by Gucci’s iconic Flora motif, showcase a magnificent 226-carat green tourmaline embraced by star motifs, diamond baguettes, and fancy-colored tourmalines.
As summer arrives, the collection bursts with saturated hues of emeralds, spinels, and Paraiba tourmalines, adorned with dazzling diamonds. Gucci’s creative vision shines through unexpected gemstone combinations and daring cuts, showcasing their unique flair.

Sophia Vari’s sculptural sensibilities are celebrated by Elisabetta Cipriani gallery, which this month has announced its first solo exhibition of the late Greek artist’s work (Vari passed away in May 2023). ‘All Mediums are Noble’ encompasses 40 wearable sculptures – 12 of which were created exclusively for the exhibition – made from a rich tapestry of materials, including resin, rock crystal, amaranth wood and marble.  

Sophia Vari’s “portable sculptures”, as she likes to call them, first became part of the artist’s body of work 30 years ago; at a time in her life when demanding international schedule kept her constantly on the move. While travelling, she carried with her a small box of plasticine, from which she would mould miniature sculptures. “From that day on, I had a new creative challenge that gave me a lot of joy because I could see the pieces being worn.”

American Museum of Natural History
Aurora Butterfly of Peace
American Museum of Natural History: Aurora Butterfly of Peace


"The Aurora Butterfly of Peace is dedicated to all the people of the world and to universal peace and harmony among all men, religions and races." - Alan Bronstein, Aurora Gems

Now, on display at the American Museum of Natural History, the Aurora Butterfly of Peace.

The Aurora Butterfly of Peace is composed of 240 natural colored diamonds, weighing 167 carats and arranged in a symmetrical pattern of similar cuts and colors.

IDMA Newsletter
Weekly Internet/Online News Collection (WINC)
Be sure to read the latest newsletter from the IDMA, the International Diamond Manufacturers Association.

Always a good read for interesting trade news.

AND ...
American Museum of Natural History
Garden of Green Exhibition
Green Gem-set Jewelry from the collections of renowned French high jewelry maison Van Cleef & Arpels.
Museum of Natural History’s “Garden of Green” Exhibition: Now on view! A new exhibition of jewelry featuring green gemstones, from the collections of renowned French high jewelry maison Van Cleef & Arpels.

Town and Country Magazine

Town & Country's Leena Kim takes us back to a time when Harry Winston, the man, was still alive, and in love with the gems and jewelry that allowed people to wear them. As HW jewelry designer Maurice Gali once told us, "Mr. Winston didn't want the gold or platinum to show. He would have preferred, if he could, to simply glue the gems to the client." Now that is someone who loved gems.


The Mineralogical & Geological Museum at Harvard University
Friday, June 23, 2023

International Gemmological Research Industries
NCJV Conference
“Sourcing gems and diamonds”
Brisbane 30th June – 3rd July, 2023

National Association of Jewelry Appraisers NAJA
60th Annual ACEit Mid-Year Education Conference
August 12-14, 2023
Providence, RI
@ the Hilton Providence

Jewellery Valuers Association
JVA Registered Valuer Conference
September 8-10, 2023
Holywell Park, Loughborough University

World Jewellery Confederation CIBJO
Congress 2023
Jaipur, India
October 3rd - 5th
Registration for CIBJO Congress 2023 now open

Greetings from the news desk!

We'll be doing some traveling over the next few months. I'll be attending the Harvard State of the Art Jewelry Summit, the NAJA Ace-It Conference in Providence, RI, the Hardrock Summit in Denver, CO, the New York City GIA Alumni Association September meeting, the Jewellers Valuers Association Conference in Holywell Park, at Loughborough University in September, as well as the Canadian Gemological Association's 75th Conference in Vancouver.

We hope to see you somewhere along the way!

Please tell your vendors we would like them to
support the report and advertise!😊

As always, stay informed and keep in touch. I'd like to know where you've been and what gems you've seen.

We will continue to post features on the website, so feel free to log on to the Roskin Gem News Magazine any time at
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I will see you again SOON!

Stay safe and stay healthy!

Gary Roskin
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