Choosing the best boot for your climb isn't easy, with all the different options you have to consider. But we've gathered the beta from our Guide Team, who have their footwear dialed, to make the process simple for you:
There are two factors you need to consider when choosing your boot:
1) Where are you climbing?
This will determine how much insulation you need in a boot. Here are our guides' top picks for their mountains:
La Sportiva Nepal Evo GTX
Regular: $510 SALE: $455
Climbs on:
Rainier - June, July and August
Mexican and Ecuadorean volcanoes
La Sportiva BaruntseRegular: $625 SALE: $560 Climbs on:
Rainier - all seasons
Mexican and Ecuadorean volcanoes
McKinley and Aconcagua (with an overboot)
Regular: $750 SALE: $670 Climbs on:
Rainier - all seasons
Mexican and Ecuadorean volcanoes
McKinley and Aconcagua (with an overboot)
$319
Climbs on:
Rainier - May, September, or winter
Mexican and Ecuadorean volcanoes
McKinley and Aconcagua (with an overboot)
$429
Climbs on:
Rainier - May, September, or winter
Mexican and Ecuadorean volcanoes
McKinley and Aconcagua (with an overboot)
8000-meter peaks (with an overboot)
$990
Climbs on:
Rainier - May, September or winter
McKinley and Aconcagua
8000-meter peaks
2) Now you know which boots work on your mountain, it's time to decide what boot fits your foot best.
All feet are different, and the only sure-fire way to get the right boot is to try them on with the sock combo you're planning to wear, and walk around in them.
But, as a general rule, mountaineering boots should be at least half a size bigger than your street shoe, and most of our guides go for a full size bigger.
If you're ordering online and wondering how to get the best fit, don't worry: our expert in-store staff is great at matching boots to feet, even over the phone. And if you find you need a different size, return the original and we'll cover the shipping on the new pair for you.
We have a few more considerations for you:
Plastic vs. Leather: Leather tends to be more popular than plastic these days, but plastic boots can be a great option for several reasons:
One, if you're renting, or if you don't anticipate having much time to break in your boots. The combination of plastic outer plus an inner liner that you get with a plastic boot helps prevent hot spots and blisters by reducing friction directly against your foot. Most rental programs, including ours at the base of Rainier, offer plastic boots.
Two, plastic boots require less maintenance in cold and wet conditions, and unlike some leather boots, have removable liners that can be dried out overnight.
Three, newer plastic boots are lighter than they used to be, so the old assumption that leather boots are always lighter isn't necessarily true anymore. Now that you've chosen your boots, you'll want to make sure you're prepared for your climb with a few other items:
Approach boots: on bigger climbs, consider supplementing your mountaineering boots with an approach shoe for those times when you won't be needing crampons and you're hiking or trekking into base camp. Our guides like the Asolo Fugitive (for men) and Stynger (for women). Overboots: By combining a less insulated boot with an overboot, you can take it to more mountains. The La Sportiva Baruntse and Spantik, Scarpa Inverno, and Koflach Arctis Expe can all travel to higher and colder mountains with an overboot like the Forty Below Purple Haze or K2 Superlight. Insoles and Liners: A custom footbed, like the ones made by Sole, can add more cushioning and comfort for your foot. Plus, you can replace the liners in your plastic boots with Scarpa High Altitude or Intuition liners for increased comfort and warmth. Socks: There are many combinations and it really boils down to your personal preference, but here are a few guidelines:
Liners - can reduce friction from your boot or sock against your skin, thus reducing blisters. Try the Smartwool Liner Sock. Layers - people often add more layers thinking they're adding warmth, but be careful to try your sock combo with your boot to make sure you've got enough room. If you cut off circulation, you'll end up with colder feet!
Material - Avoid cotton in favor of synthetic, or even better, wool socks.
And don't forget to try your socks with your boots before you start your climb!
Booties: bringing a lightweight pair of down booties, like the Forty Below Camp Booties, can give your feet some relief at camp during a long expedition.
Finally, make sure you've tested and refined your system before you start your climb. Your feet will thank you for it!
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