ICA Newsletter | September 2021
The ICA Newsletter is a monthly publication chock full of gemstone news, including reports from the country Ambassadors, industry news, the latest from auctions and laboratories worldwide, events and exhibitions in the trade and celebrities donning the best gem-set jewelry creations.
Image courtesy Potentate Mining
Birthstones for September
A Message from Our President
 Clement Sabbagh Reports on the Work at ICA
September, 2021
Dear friends,
While it may have been a fairly quiet July and August in the gem trade, all of us at ICA have been busy working for you.
We have just finished the JCK Las Vegas Show at the Sands Convention Center and Venetian Hotel. This was the first in-person trade show for an ICA pavilion in over a year. Our staff worked closely with member exhibitors and with JCK to make sure that our members had a safe and secure place to do business. Despite the lower attendance, the feedback we’ve received from exhibitors were overall positive with the presence of qualified buyers. JCK is finalizing a post-show report and we will soon have official data to share with all our ICA members.
Helen Molesworth is busy working on her first edition of InColor Magazine as our new Editor in Chief. We anticipate sending InColor to you by November. There is still time to advertise in the magazine and share your support for ICA. Contact the office if you are interested. There are many advertising options and the office is always open to working with you to find the best plan for your company and your marketing needs.
Our Congress Committee has been busy working on the details with Lucas Lu, Vice President of the Shuibei Jewelry Group, and chair of the China Congress Committee for our 2022 Shenzhen China Congress. We are very excited about plans for networking with important Chinese gem trade members, and how simultaneous translations will be available for all conversations throughout the entire event.
Our ICA branding initiative is in full blast. The first phase of the project has been accomplished and helped us determine the direction our members envision for ICA. We are now the second phase which will translate these findings into a relevant brand positioning of our Association amongst the industry. We anticipate that we may soon have a new look for ICA’s communication which will help us better promote our industry in future initiatives.
Our Gems Keep Giving Fund (GKG) now has two very promising projects looking for our support. One is in Sri Lanka, and the other in Kenya. Both are similar in scope showing needs for basic education and healthcare. Our fund has been supported by generous donations from JCK, as well as our ICA pavilion exhibitors. We hope to have further details soon for those who would like to contribute.
Finally, I would just like to say that we could not be doing all of this for our members and the trade if it were not for your strong support throughout the year. We thank you very much for your membership and your trust in ICA to help promote the global gemstone trade.
Clement Sabbagh
ICA President

ICA Ambassadors Report
ICA Ambassador to France Pascale Savigny
Dear ICA members,
Greetings from France!
In recent weeks, the situation in France has been rather good. Bars, restaurants, concert venues and theaters have reopened. Intensive care cases have declined dramatically, with the government attributing the improvement to the accelerating vaccination rollout.

The French vaccination program started very slowly compared to its European neighbours. But the government pushed to accelerate before and during the summer period.

The initial Covid-19 pass was implemented by decree, first for restaurants and long-distance train and plane travel this summer. Vaccinations are now also mandatory for healthcare and nursing home workers, many of whom have been particularly suspicious or dismissive of vaccines.

Thus nearly 50 million people or more than 80% of the population are vaccinated.

Despite the fourth wave in tourist areas this summer, the situation - due to the vaccination rate - is improving in France. Covid-19 contamination is on the decline and health restrictions could perhaps be relaxed soon.

After a historic recession recorded in 2020, the recovery of the economy was delayed at the beginning of the year due to the persistence of the epidemic. But the lifting of health restrictions in the spring, along with the increase in vaccinations, has raised the economy on the surface, underlined by the National Institute of Statistics. The government expects a 5% growth and a return of activity to pre-crisis levels in 2022.

In addition, the reduction in the high level of savings due to sanitary restrictions will stimulate consumption as pent-up demand is satisfied.

The gemstone business is back! People are more optimistic and have plans again.

Now let's wait and see how the situation will evolve with the onset of winter.

Tradeshow Updates
UPDATED Trade Shows
Scheduled, Rescheduled, & Cancelled
JCK LAS VEGAS 2021 - Completed
 - rescheduled for August 26-30, 2021

VICENZAORO - Completed
 - on schedule for September 10-14, 2021
HardRock Summit SPARKLE & JOY DENVER 2021
 - on schedule for September 18-21, 2021
Informa Markets Jewellery & Gem WORLD HK (HKCEC)
- Physical Event on schedule for September 17 - 20, 2021
- Virtual Event on schedule for September 13 – 30, 2021
Informa Markets Jewellery & Gem WORLD Hong Kong (JGW) (AWE)
- rescheduled for November 16-19, 2021

GJX Show, Tucson 2022
 - on schedule for February 01-06, 2022

Informa Markets JGT Dubai 2022
 - on schedule for February 22-24, 2022
Industry News
Dev Shetty: Benchmarking Clean Colour Gemstone Trade

Dev Shetty, a promising chartered accountant, was making his mark as a turnaround agent, first for Essel Propack in 2005 and then for the PE Group in 2007 in the UK. A seismic rejig in the PE group led to Shetty being entrusted with recovering the balance sheet of a coloured gemstones company as the CFO.

Overhauling past practices with a passion for the product, a grading mechanism in gemstone roughs and a focus on auctions, Shetty's novel approach helped the company break even in 15 months.

"About 99 per cent of the coloured-gemstones industry was unorganised then. FURA Gems was started with the ambition of ensuring complete traceability of our ethically sourced gemstones from the rough to retail," explained Shetty, founder-CEO of FURA Gems Inc. To achieve the goal, FURA Gems focused on ...

The $3.5 Million Emerald Spectacles Said to Ward Off Evil
CNN Style

Two pairs of 17th-century glasses are expected to fetch millions of dollars at auction next month. The jewel-encrusted spectacles, which feature lenses made from diamond and emerald rather than glass, are believed to have originally belonged to royals in the Mughal Empire, which once ruled over the Indian subcontinent.

Designed to help the wearer reach enlightenment and ward off evil, they are set to go on public display for the first time ever as they tour New York, Hong Kong and London ahead of the October sale.

JTV® Announces Launch of the
Australian Style Jewelry Collection

JTV, the national jewelry retailer and broadcast network, announced the launch of its newest brand, Australian Style, which will join its Style Jewelry Collections that spotlight culture-inspired jewelry lines.

JTV's new brand features a variety of beautifully crafted necklaces, rings, earrings and bracelets that highlight animal motifs, florals and iconic symbols that pay homage to Australia's awe-inspiring landscapes, customs and ways of life. Available exclusively through JTV's broadcast and ecommerce channels, the collection ...

Gemfields Pays a Charitable Tribute to
the ‘Big Three’ Coloured Gemstones
Gemfields and Jewel of Africa create a charitable pendant to celebrate the completion of a landmark book trilogy


The release of Sapphire completes the landmark trilogy of coffee table books sponsored by Gemfields and devoted to the ‘Big Three’ coloured gemstones –emeralds, rubies and sapphires. Emerald was released in 2013 and Ruby in 2017, meaning completion of the project spans almost a decade of work and research by author Joanna Hardy.

To mark the milestone, Gemfields has partnered with Jewel of Africa to create a special limited edition of ...

This New Subscription Service Will Change How You Buy and Share Jewellery
Access a glittering vault of diamond and gemstone pieces through Covett – the UK’s first fine jewellery co-ownership and subscription service

A dazzling Art Deco diamond bracelet. A conversation-starting David Jerome morganite and diamond cocktail ring, which looks good enough to eat. A sleek Cartier watch. These are just some of the pieces available through Covett, the world's first fine jewellery subscription service.

Offering a stylish and sustainable alternative to fashion consumption, rental platforms are ...

Princess Margaret's Cartier Bracelet Sells for £396,800
The princess wore the pearl Art Deco bracelet in her 19th-birthday portrait.

Town & Country magazine

There are few jewelry boxes that would be more interesting to rifle through than Princess Margaret's.

In addition to access to any number of royal jewels, the famously glamorous princess had impressive baubles of her own, including a 1925 Art Deco pearl and diamond bracelet by Cartier, which she wore for her 19th birthday portrait, photographed by Cecil Beaton.

A double-strand of cultured pearls with a diamond clasp set in platinum, engraved "M" for Margaret and stamped "M" for Mikimoto and "P' for platinum, it comes in its original box with a certificate of provenance from Kensington Palace, signed June 13, 2006. 

Tiffany & Co Brings Their 80-Carat ‘Empire Diamond’ to Southeast Asia for the First Time
Tatler Asia

As part of the 2021 Blue Book Collection, Tiffany & Co proudly introduces its newly obtained 80.33-carat Empire Diamond—which was named after the House’s founding city—in an exclusive showcase, before it is placed in a striking design that takes its inspiration from the 1939 World’s Fair necklace.

The Empire Diamond is the largest ...

How To Choose Jewellery That Suits Your Skin Tone
Tatler Asia

When people wear or buy jewellery, they focus on preference. They might prefer a quartz ring or a topaz bracelet because they've seen somebody wearing similar on-trend styles.

While there is absolutely nothing wrong with this, you may end up having buyer's remorse if your accessories don't seem to blend well with your skin. 

Tanzania: Tanzanite Miners Upbeat On Royal Tour

Players in the gemstone industry are anticipating a huge economic impact of President Samia Suluhu Hassan's Royal Tour recording of the Mirerani Mines in Simanjiro District.

The miners are optimistic that the recent shooting of episodes at Mirerani Hills will put to rest claims of ...

Samia Touts Pricey Tanzanite

PRESIDENT Samia Suluhu Hassan has emphasized on proper mining and selling of Tanzanite in attempts to push the price of the rare gemstone in the world market.

The Head of State censured what she described as arbitrary mining and selling of Tanzanite gem, which has been lowering the value ...

Samia on Tanzanite: Cut Supply to Boost its Value

Visiting Mirerani town in Simanjiro District of Manyara Region, the president’s appearance in the area was billed to feature in another episode of ‘The Royal Tour’ TV series. She cautioned against haste in the tanzanite business.

“We are the only ones who have tanzanite, why do we hurry? Let’s sell them in calculated installments so as to increase ...

Kashmir Sapphire
A Princely Jewel, Sold for 2.7 Million in Monaco
Monaco Tribune

On 19 July, the Monte-Carlo auction house had a catalogue full of rings. From low-domed to standard, there was something for every taste… and every price. How about a ring with a rare cushion-cut Burmese ruby weighing 12.75 carats, or a Cartier flanked by a large oval yellow sapphire weighing 19.45 carats?

However, there was one ring that many eagerly awaited. Seven buyers competed over the phone and raised the stakes. In the end, the final hammer went to an Italian.

The Trends At Melee - The Show
Forbes magazine

The trade only jewelry shows are back. Melee-The Show kicked off the season when it opened on August 6th and is running through August 9th.

After virtual-only events for the past seasons since COVID started, Melee-The Show moved to a new location at the Bowery Hotel and is featuring an über talented group of independent designers who ...

Le Vian Donates World's "Newest" Gemstone to Museum
IDEX Online

Unique specimens of Aquaprase, the world's "newest" gemstone, are being donated to the American Museum of Natural History.

The bluish-green chalcedony was discovered in 2013 by veteran gem explorer Yianni Melas at an undisclosed location in Africa, as the first "new" gemstone of the century.

New York-based jewelers Le Vian is gifting examples of its own trademarked classification of the stone, called Peacock Aquaprase, to the museum, on the Upper West Side of Manhattan, in New York City.

The donation comprises of ...

Images, courtesy Le Vian, shows rough Peacock Aquaprase and the Kameha ring and Kailani necklace
A New Exhibition Celebrating Black Jewelry Designers Is Coming to New York
Vogue magazine

It’s no secret that the glittering world of haute joaillerie has traditionally favored ‘Africa-inspired’ design over designers of African descent. But Melanie Grant, journalist and author of Coveted: Art and Innovation in High Jewelry, hopes to remedy that with a first-of-its-kind selling exhibition, in partnership with Sotheby’s New York. 

China May Help Pakistan Achieve $5bn Gems, Jewelry Export Target
Daily Times

Chinese investors have recently shown interest in establishing and investing in lapidary units along China-Pakistan Economic Corridor (CPEC) route, which may help Pakistan achieve its $5 Billion Gems & Jewelry export target.

Talking to Gwadar Pro. Zhao Lanying who is running an import-export business for last two decades said that a large number of Chinese investment can be brought to Pakistan for setting up lapidaries and special industrial parks for cutting, polishing, faceting and carving of gemstones.

“I have years of experience with Pakistani traders and manufacturers, and I think ... "

Hong Kong ‘twin’ shows attract 30,000 attendees amid COVID-19 pandemic
Jeweller magazine

In 2019 – the last time the shows were held physically – they attracted a record 90,000 registered buyers and 4,555 exhibitors.

Due to the COVID-19 pandemic, the ‘twin’ shows were cancelled in 2020 and the 2021 edition postponed from their usual March dates to July; however, ongoing travel restrictions still prevented many regular attendees from taking part.

Member Resources & Initiatives
It is intended that members who undertake this accreditation process will understand more fully their duty of care within the gem and jewelry supply chain. It is designed to be a practical self-audit and a voluntary pledge on responsible sourcing.
We want to make a difference by providing assistance to artisanal mining and cutting communities, which will focus on the key areas of concern: safety, human rights, fair work, inclusiveness, environmental impact, resource sustainability and community amenity.
Images of colored gems from around the globe, plus all aspects of the colored gem industry including mining, cutting, manufacture, gemmological research, education, marketing, design and retailing.
In the hopes to be of service to members, the ICA has put together this small compendium of resources related to COVID-19 and its challenges and opportunities.
September Birthstone: Sapphire
Sapphire, hailed by many gem experts and trends trackers as the most popular color stone on the market, has been the traditional birthstone for September since Jewelers of America established the modern list of birthstones in 1912.

Its designation as a talismanic gem is rooted in the Bible, one of 12 stones for each tribe of Israel adorning the breastplate of the high priestess. Steeped in the history and lore of nearly every religion and culture, Sapphire always has been associated with ...

ICA Office Update
September 2021
Greetings from the ICA,
We are excited about everything that is happening right now here at ICA.

As Clement noted above, we have Helen's first edition of InColor Magazine coming out soon, and the launch of our new branding campaign. We also have some exciting changes happening with our website, specifically focused on easy networking, having private conversations, working in groups, video chats with old friends, or making business connections - and all exclusively for ICA members.
In-Person Trade Shows
Tucson anyone? Yes, we are already talking about Tucson, how many new booths we will have in our pavilion, as well as who may, and who may not, be able to travel by then.

The September Hong Kong show is still scheduled for this month, and like the past few in-person shows, looks to be another local show, combined shows hosted at the CEC.
Our Ambassadors
We would like to once again give a shout out to our Ambassadors who continue to give us great first-hand reports from around the globe.
AEM - It's an annual renewal!
As we approach the end of the year, sometime in December you will want to complete the AEM accreditation again. This is an annual renewal, so you must log in and complete the forms to retain your AEM status.

If you have difficulties with logging onto the website, please do not hesitate to get in contact with the ICA office and we will walk you through the process. As you should know, if you are an ICA member, you can be an AEM today!
China Congress 2022
Judging from the Congress meetings we have had recently, the Congress in China will be fabulous! Watch for details over the next few months.

As always, if we can help with anything from the office, do not hesitate to contact us directly.
On behalf of the President, the Board of Directors, and the ICA office staff (Claudiu, Cecilia, and Maggie),
Best wishes, keep healthy and stay safe,
Gary Roskin
Chief Executive Officer