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The Friday Fish Report
Friday, February 17, 2017         visit us at www.MonahansSeafood.com
Lavraki: We've got the Scoop, Bronzini is Tasty!
  
In Greece the European sea bass is called lavraki, it is also a term Greek journalists use when they snag an exclusive story, referring to how lucky you are if you catch one. If you get a chance, you'd be lucky to taste one. In France they're called loup or bar. The Spanish call them robalo, northern Italians call them bronzino and elsewhere in Italy they're called spigola.  Marketed in the U.S. as bronzini-they're widely distributed from Norway to western Sahara, the Meditteranean and Black Seas-these fish are loved wherever they're found and have been since early Roman days.

Due to intense fishing pressure, wild stocks have dwindled worldwide and the price of available wild bronzini is astronomical.  Fortunately, the cultivation of these European favorites has been evolving for a couple thousand years; from the ancient times of trapping them in lagoons to fatten them up, to the pioneering Israelis, French and Greeks-who in the '60s mastered the farming techniques that enabled the European bass to become the second biggest in production of farmed fish in Europe next to salmon.

bronzini on ice

To many people, "farmed" is a dirty word when it comes to fish. There's been a lot of negative press in the U.S., mainly about salmon farming but just the word has developed a negative connotation. A lot of the criticism is justified but as farmed fish and shellfish approach (and may have already passed) 50 percent of total worldwide consumption,  I think we have to accept the fact that fish farming will play an important roll in the feeding of the world. In his book,  Four Fish, Paul Greenberg paints a pretty well balanced picture of how Aquaculture and our last wild caught food source will coexist in the future with better technology and management.

Our market still specializes in wild caught fish but we do sell a few good quality farmed fish like salmon, catfish, tilapia, and I'll tell ya, our Greek lavraki (bronzini) is really a great fish! We love whole fish that are small enough to handle on a grill, to fit in a steamer, a pan, or wrapped in parchment paper. Wild native fish of manageable size like snapper, porgy, black bass and the close relative of bronzini-striped bass-are all wonderful, but not always consistent in size and availability. Farm raised striped bass are in the nice 1 to 2 lb. range but they're a hybrid cross between a freshwater white bass and a saltwater striped bass and, in my opinion, lack in the flavor of a wild striper or a bronzini.

The Bronzini have a bone structure that's easy to navigate, a buttery texture and a sweet delicate flavor.  It's a perfect fish for a whole fish novice and, like the yellowtail snapper, you slowly enjoy every part from the cheeks and collar on down.

My first dining experience with these fish was in a fishing village in the Basque region of Spain. Overlooking a beautiful little harbor watching the fisherman mending their nets, the colorful boats, even a big fishing vessel right off shore with small tenders bringing in, I think, anchovies. We were in heaven. After sitting down at a small outdoor café that was grilling fish we ordered a couple of simple whole grilled robalo (bronzini) a nice local wine, bread and a local delicious salad. Absolutely fantastic!  After assuming that the robalo was caught by the fisherman we were watching below us, I was a bit surprised to find that the fish we had just eaten for dinner was farm raised, probably in Greece just like most of the sea bass eaten in Europe. I still thought it was fantastic and it was a meal we'll never forget.

Grilling is a fine way to prepare bronzini but the great thing about this fish is its versatility. Baking, steaming, sautéing, salt encrusted; just about any cooking method works with this fish. 
 

   
Mike's Links of the Week:
Fresh Sardines: Healthy, Sustainable & Delicious
Another Great Mackerel Dish by Yotam + Sami

From the Fish Report Archives:
Bronzini with Tomato & Herbs en Papillote
Cuban Mojo & Grilled Yellowtail Snapper

Featured Whole Fish for the Weekend:
Bronzini
Spanish Dover Sole
Boned Catfish
Walleye
Indian Brook Rainbow Trout
Genuine Gulf Red Snapper
Yellowtail Flounder
Atlantic Mackerel
Japanese Sanma
Atlantic Red Rockfish (Ocean Perch)
Spanish Octopus 
Head-On Wild Texas Gulf Shrimp
Spanish Royal Red Shrimp- Carabineros
Fresh North Carolina White Shrimp
Fresh Monterey Bay Sardines
Fresh Monterey Bay Anchovies

Other Weekend Goodies:
Wild Alaskan Sockeye Salmon
Black Sea Bass
#1 Sushi Grade Bigeye Tuna
Grey Sole
Warsaw Grouper
Mahi Mahi
Swordfish
Cobia
Norwegian Fjord Ocean Trout
Monkfish
Black Cod (Sablefish)
Hake
Atlantic Salmon Steaks
Hamachi Collars
Skate
Great Lakes Whitefish & Lake Trout
Gulf of Maine Pollock 
Rainbow Trout
Tilapia
Bar Harbor Mussels
Manila Clams
Littleneck Clams
Dry Pack Sea Scallops
Jonah Crab
Lump Crab
Great Selection of Smoked Fish
Smoked Mussels 
Finnan Haddie & Kipper fillets from Stonington Seafood
Ortiz Boquerones- White Anchovies
Bacalao
Yukon River Smoked Salmon Strips (Salmon Candy)

Oysters:  Onset (Cape Cod), Kusshi (B.C.), Belon (ME)
                 Bras D'Or (Cape Breton)

Chowder:   Caribbean Seafood & N.E. Clam

From the Freezer:  Alaskan King Crab Legs, Maine Lobster Tails, Spiny Lobster Tails, New Zealand Cold Water Lobster Tails, Finnan Haddie, Smoked Pollock, Salmon Roe (Ikura), Seaweed Salad (Wakame), Louisiana Crawfish Meat, Snow Crab Cocktail Claws, Conch Meat
 
More Interesting Stuff:  Swordfish Scallopini, Shrimp
Rémoulade, Lobster Salad,  Hand-Peeled Fresh Cooked Wild Gulf Shrimp, Monahan's Creamed Herring, Monahan's Bouillabaisse Base & Fish Stock

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Garlicy-Lemony Grilled Bronzini with Rosemary
grilled bronzini
Serves 2
Bronzini have a bone structure that's easy to navigate, a buttery texture and a sweet delicate flavor. It's a perfect fish for a whole fish novice and, like the yellowtail snapper, you slowly enjoy every part from the cheeks and collar on down. It's a wonderful, simple dish that goes great with some crusty bread and a nice green salad. This recipe would work for any small whole fish on the grill such as snapper, porgy, orata or bluefish. 
  • 1 1/2-2 lb. whole bronzini (gutted, gilled and scored for grilling)
  • 1/2 c olive oil
  • 8 cloves garlic
  • 4 springs rosemary
  • lemon cut into slices, then halved
  • kosher salt & pepper
Heat grill to medium (if gas) or heat coal grill using the indirect method (hot spots on either side of the grill with an open space in the center). Make sure the grill is clean well-oiled.

Stuff fish with 4 cloves of crushed garlic, 4 of the lemon slices, a sprig of rosemary and salt & pepper. Mix olive oil, the remaining garlic cloves (minced) and the other 3 sprigs of the rosemary (crushed) in a dish with the rest of the lemons. Place stuffed fish in this marinade for about 10 minutes. Just before grilling, remove the fish and bring marinate to a boil so you can use it as a sauce for the finished fish.

When coals are hot and white (or gas grill has heated). Place fish gently over the open space with no coals directly under it and grill for 5-6 minutes a side. Flip gently with a spatula and tongs so you don't lose the crispy skin (this is why you want a well-oiled grill). Remove to a platter and top with the sauce you made from the marinade.