Noonsite July Sailing News and Updates |
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Looking back one year ago at last July’s newsletter, it seems we are yet again breaking heat records in the northern hemisphere this month. Atmospheric conditions are allowing persistent strong areas of high pressure to become established, which intensify the heat and without a change in the jet stream are persisting for weeks. Yachts cruising the Mediterranean right now are dealing with extreme temperatures as high as 45.3°C, recorded in Figueres in Catalunya, Spain and the hottest sea surface temperatures every observed in the Mediterranean overall.
Keeping cool on the water has never been more crucial, and we link to some great ideas in New to Cruising this month. Cruisers in the remote Solomon Islands in the South Pacific are making encouraging in-roads to help locals preserve fish stocks in Yachties Helping Out and we visit Penrhyn, in the Cook Islands for our Off the Beaten Path feature. There’s plenty of interesting news from around the world for cruising sailors in our Ocean Round-Up and we have more insights into how you can get more out of using Noonsite.
Thank you to everyone who posted comments or emailed us this month with feedback from where they are cruising and in particular those who made the effort to submit detailed and inspiring cruising reports. These contributions from our users are the lifeblood of Noonsite and hopefully keep you coming back to discover more.
Keep cool and calm this month and safe passage wherever you are cruising,
Sue and the Noonsite Team
Editor@noonsite.com
Previous newsletters can be viewed here.
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The islanders of Matuku, in Fiji's Lau group, have decided to implement three big “Tabu” (traditional ban) no-fishing zones around their island to protect all species of reef fish, thanks to the efforts of Austrian cruisers Birgit Hackl and Christian Feldhauer.
Birgit and Christian have been cruising in the South Pacific for several years, and often return from snorkeling trips sad and depressed by dead coral and lack of fish and marine life. However, in Matuku, they were delighted to see a pristine and healthy marine environment, which they realised needed protecting to ensure the future of the ecosystem. Their efforts to talk with the locals about the necessity to limit fishing/harvesting have finally paid off and local fishermen now understand the need to take measures to ensure a future for their fishing grounds. Read their report about how the Matuku Tabu came into being here.
Earlier in 2023, Vanuatu was battered by two cyclones and an earthquake. In a show of support and camaraderie from the cruising community, rally organisers and cruisers in the South Pacific gathered much-needed aid and supplies for devastated parts of the country. Luc Callebaut, one of the aid mission's organisers, reports on its successful delivery.
More than 40 cruisers visiting Tonga joined up with the Vava’u Environmental Protection Association and locals to help in a massive beach clean up at Neiafu on the island of Vava’u. A report on their efforts can be found here.
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For newbies to Noonsite, you might be wondering how much you can trust our Formalities information?
Formalities have been Noonsite’s speciality since it’s inception in 2000 and we are still the only source on the web that provides comprehensive information about what authorities, in every coastal country around the world, expect from visiting yachts. Our team update formalities on a rolling basis with the aim to not have any one country more than 2 years since last updating. Updating is done using official sources. This means contacting people we know in the Immigration, Customs and Port Authorities to verify any changes in rules. Irritatingly, the official websites for many countries are often not updated - many still have Covid rules on them. Hence, we prefer to go direct to the people working with small craft to get the latest updates. We always date our information and if you visit the update history section (accessed via the information icon and related content) this gives details of what was last updated and when in that country.
It may well be that you are reviewing formalities on Noonsite that date from 2-plus years ago. Yes, there are some countries on the site that have fallen behind - we are still catching up post-Covid as during the Pandemic all our resources were focused on informing the cruising community on border closures and the subsequent Covid measures introduced. Please send us an e-mail and ASK what the latest formalities are. This is a good prompt for us, and takes us no time to get in touch with our contacts and confirm if anything has changed since Noonsite was last updated. We are here to help, so please do use the team to clear up any doubts [noonsite@noonsite.com].
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Remember too, that on Noonsite we outline the official requirements as provided to us by the authorities. In many cases the official requirements may not match the reality, as it tends to depend on which officers you deal with on the day (some can be more officious than others), which port of entry you choose etc. That's why we have comments on Noonsite - the little speech bubble icon - where members can post feedback on clearing in and out of countries. Cruisers' experiences can vary widely, in particular from countries made up of hundreds of islands and very wide-spread.
Should you visit a country and find that the clearance experience is different from that outlined on Noonsite, then please tell us, either by posting a comment (best option so others can benefit from your experience) or e-mailing the team. We can then make contact with the authorities and get our information updated. Equally helpful is reporting that all was the same as outlined on Noonsite, so we know our info. is still up to date. It’s a big world and we are a small team, so every little bit helps.
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Perhaps it’s your first summer on your boat – living on board for an extended period and learning how to deal with the heat (in many places even more intense this summer). Most yachts don’t have the best ventilation, so how do you keep you and your crew cool both above and below decks when you don’t have air conditioning on board?
Hot weather advice from the experts:
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Practical Sailor has simple tips on how to improve boat ventilation. Instead of focusing on hatches, vents, opening portlights, or air-conditioning systems, they have narrowed the focus to passive ventilation—cowl vents, dorades, hatches, “wind scoops,” and other ways to boost the exchange of air on board without any mechanical assistance.
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Official Noonsite Ropes and Rigging Partner |
Choosing a new halyard can be a daunting task, but it doesn't have to be.
The key factor when deciding on your new halyard will be marrying your expectations of performance to the confines of your budget.
In this latest editorial, Alistair Green discusses the different aspects to consider when choosing a new halyard, depending on whether it is for upwind or downwind sails and whether you are cruising, performance cruising or even racing.
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Molly and My Lagerström are Swedish sisters, two years into a three-year circumnavigation with mum and dad on board their yacht Alice. Currently in Micronesia they took some time out to take part in our Portrait of a Cruiser series and give some insight into what life on board is like when you are 7 and 8 and cruising to remote destinations. Mum and Skipper Maria, also gives some great tips on what makes the perfect family time and schooling on board.
Read Molly and My's Portrait of a Cruiser here.
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Pacific:
Also in French Polynesia, Clearance in Moorea is not straightforward, cruisers report. Afareaitu is the administrative center of Moorea and while it is listed as an official Port of Entry in FP Government Documentation, cruisers report being unable to find a Gendarmerie for inward/outward clearance here. Officials at Cooks Bay on Moorea, have also advised cruisers who have attempted to undertake clearance there, that they are not equipped to undertake clearance procedures. Current advice is to undertake clearance at Papeete (Tahiti).
On July 1st the Cook Islands government increased port clearance fees by 6% (the first increase since 2018).
Aitutaki, the second most-populated island in the Cook Islands next to Rarotonga (and the two being the only ports of entry in the Cooks open at this time), is undergoing major expansion works at the port. The Aitutaki harbor master has sent an outline of the planned development which involves dredging of the entrance channel to a 6m depth and widening to 15m with channel markers, to be completed by the end of August. Subsequent works include developing the marina for local fishermen, charter operations, and more space/moorings for visiting yachts.
We’ve talked about Niue a lot this year as it gets back on its feet post-Covid to welcome yachts this season. If visiting Niue is on your wish list, this great blog by Noonsite regular contributors Maria and Allen of SY Jamala about their visit to Niue at the start of July will give you a good perspective of all the wonders the island has to offer. Other cruisers that have visited recently have also posted comments on the Alofi, Niue page.
Last month we reported on a search and rescue in the South Pacific when rescue authorities were looking for an overdue boat and instead found a drifting single-handed rower. The good news is that the overdue boat, SY Yasuokole with father and son team on board, have finally turned up in American Samoa unaware that family and friends were concerned about them. They had departed La Paz, Mexico, on 14 April and 78 days later on 30 June, arrived in American Samoa after a very slow trip across the Pacific. Read the details here.
Recent feedback from cruisers who have cleared into Papua New Guinea are that there are safety concerns in Rabaul, New Britain. If you don’t have to clear in at Rabaul, their advice is to head straight to Kavieng in New Ireland and check in there after anchoring at Nusa Island Resort, which is reported to be both beautiful and much safer (although some precautions should still be taken). Read the feedback in comments on the main PNG page.
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Indian:
The ever-helpful South African weather router, Des Cason, has updated his Tanzania Cruising Notes for Noonsite users. Des spent 12 months in Tanzania and is a positive ambassador for the country, highly recommending it as a cruising destination. He comments; “Tanzania has a very docile and easy coastline (unlike Kenya) and should be a must-see on any cruisers’ calendar. Less well known as a tourism destination, Tanazania has Mt Kilimanjaro and world-class game viewing to rival its neighbours.” Des’s notes are extensive, with lots of local tips and detailed anchorage information.
ALL small craft entering South Africa from international waters MUST register online through www.osasa.org.za for pre-arrival authorisation before entering the first Port of Entry. In response to requests from incoming vessels, OSASA’s online platform now supports the registration of up to 18 crew at a time.
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Red Sea:
While the mainland of Yemen remains a very inhospitable place for cruising sailors, the offshore island of Socotra continues to offer a warm welcome for those planning a passage to or from the Red Sea. Local contact Denis Romanov has given Noonsite an update on services in Socotra for cruising sailors.
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Caribbean Sea:
Significant levels of Saharan dust moved across the northern areas of the Lesser Antilles this month and air quality alerts were issued for some islands.
Yacht break ins and burglaries continue to be reported in the Caribbean, some from boats that hadn’t locked their hatches when going ashore. Cruisers returned after dark to their unlocked catamaran that was anchored in Simpson Bay, Sint Maarten and disturbed an intruder who threatened them with what looked like a small handgun. Read report here.
The Panama Canal have introduced a new online portal this month for small craft that is now mandatory for pre-registration whether using an agent, or dealing with the logistics yourself. Known as ASEM (Small Craft Service Management) https://asem.pancanal.com/, the portal is also to be used for virtual inspections – meaning physical inspections are no longer required. You (or your agent) will need to upload various photos of the boat to demonstrate main measurements and projecting deck equipment, and dimensions will also need to be included. The normal questionnaire asking for arrival date, characteristics, last ten ports, crew details, etc. is also on the portal and payment is now done online (with a 12.87 % charge by the canal authorities to users). Find out full details of the new procedures at Noonsite’s Procedures for a Panama CanalTransit.
Intense drought in the Panama Canal has now been reduced from every five to every three years, with another year expected as La Nina approaches. As a result the Panama Canal Authorities are now implementing water-saving measures. While these won’t directly affect yacht transits, they will affect larger carrier vessels who tend to transit in tandem with yachts.
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Atlantic:
Although Noonsite predominantly covers only coastal ports, we realised some time ago that there is little information out there regarding the Intracoastal Waterway and Great Loop specifically for international visitors to the USA. Consequently, we pulled together an Introductory Guide to the ICW and Great Loop for those cruisers who might be considering this inland option for some alternative summer cruising. Regular Noonsite contributor Maryanne Webb has transited the Erie Canal in upstate New York twice now. This Canal runs east-west between the Hudson River and Lake Erie and in her article “Transiting a Historic Waterway” she provides a multitude of suggestions and useful information.
Some good Brazil clearance feedback from regular contributors Floris and Ivar from Sailors for Sustainability, who are nearing the end of their circumnavigation and recently cleared into Natal.
UK cruisers clearing in to Norway in Bergen have been given a reminder by the Immigration authorities that yachts from third countries (including UK yachts) should report to the authorities immediately on arrival at a Port of Entry. Since Brexit it appears they have been having problems with UK visitors arriving by sea and not checking-in, and Norwegian Law requires it.
At this time of year the Azores are becoming more popular with cruising yachts. Ex-cruiser Linda Lane Thornton who lives in the Azores, has written an informative article for Caribbean Compass about this archipelago as a cruising destination in its own right.
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As the logical “jumping off” point for an Atlantic crossing to the Caribbean, many yachts planning on a crossing in November are starting to arrive in the Canary islands. Those that have time take a cruise through the island chain, although cruising here in the summer can be challenging with the prevailing NE wind being strongest in July and August. When the NE trades are blowing strongly, an opposing wind usually blows on the other side of the island, varying in strength with the strength of the trade wind. A funnelling effect is also felt along the coasts of some of the mountainous islands and the trades can be accelerated by up to 15 knots in places. The persistent trade winds flowing from the NE to the SW around these mountainous islands create a phenomenon known as “von Karman vortex streets”, which are the swirling vortices that occur downstream (as shown on the satellite image). There are a total of three streets caused by each of the larger Canary Islands. Find out more here.
It's not just the winds that can be challenging in the Canaries. Gaining access to some of the smaller harbors can be tricky as many are government-run and not particularly yachting-friendly. Fabian Eder reports on his negative experience in Los Gigantes in Tenerife, when he was turned away when trying to find space outside of business hours.
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Mediterranean:
Roditis Yachting Agency in Greece report on an urgent situation that is developing in Kos and soon all over Greece, in reference to Polish Flag Yachts. Greek Customs requires that every yacht which is entering in Greek Waters under Polish Flag should refer to Customs in order to prove its VAT Status (because Poland does not follow EU directives concerning yacht registration and especially VAT Matters). In the event that the yacht is not VAT-Paid, then it will be handled as Non-EU and will be issued a 30-day Transit Log.
Also in Greece, one non-EU yacht clearing into Greece from Turkey reports on being fined for not following the Transit Log rules. Non-EU boats visiting Greece should be familiar with all the Transit Log rules, and if unsure, ask Customs on clearing into the country. Since June 2022, the Transit Log officially has to be presented to the Port Master’s Office to be stamped in every port visited. The PP are obliged to check if yachts have had their TL’s/crew lists stamped and the standard penalty for not doing so is 500 Euros.
Located on the Eastern shores of the Mediterranean Sea, Lebanon is not a typical cruising destination. Italian sailor Giorgio Clerici of SY Laurora spent last winter there and reports on fees, protocols and his impressions of this country that is suffering an economic crisis. He comments, "while Winter cruising outside of Beirut is not to be recommended, in the Summer there are some interesting places to visit and lovely anchorages along the coast".
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A popular option for winter in the Med is Tunisia and the latest edition of the North Africa Pilot from the Royal Cruising Club Pilotage Foundation explores why Tunisia makes such an ideal year-round base for Mediterranean Cruising. Imray’s Commissioning Editor William Thomson highlights its perfect position, with easy access to Greece and Croatia in the east or Sardinia and the Balearics in the west. The weather is warm and generally moderate with pleasant winter cruising in the south as depressions tend to stay further north. The infrastructure for yachting is well established and varied with many harbours, small fishing ports and marinas to enjoy not to mention the rich history and culture on shore. See his full summary in Tunisia comments and more details about the Pilot in our Book of the Month further down.
We are constantly adding to our Wintering in the Med article – to help give an overview of all the possible options for spending the winter in the Mediterranean Sea. This article principally is a collection of feedback from Noonsite users and includes links to reports as well received from cruisers in over-wintering spots. Let us know where you spent last winter in the Med and we can add it to the list of recommendations.
Reports of orca interactions with sailing boats have extended into the Mediterranean this month, with the latest south of Marbella, Spain. Keep up to date on interactions and locations at http://orcaiberica.org.
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When planning a long-distance cruising adventure there are many factors to consider. Probably most important are the onboard systems and equipment that you invest in to make life in a compact space on the ocean easier, safer and more comfortable. Half way through a planned 10-year odyssey, regular INSIGHTS contributor Alison Gieschen and her husband Dan talk about their top five items on board that they could not live without, as they voyage around the globe.
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Penrhyn is the northern-most of the Cook Islands and probably the most remote and difficult to access, but is well worth the effort according to Canadian cruisers Ian Hay and Ann Montgomery of SV Afrikii, who visited there in May 2023. Ann told Noonsite, “This is my second time across the Pacific, but first time to Penrhyn and I have to say it is our favourite island (and we loved French Polynesia, especially the Marquesas). It is not on the straight-line path towards Tonga if you are coming from French Polynesia, but it is so well worth the few days north to get here, it really is.” Read their report here.
Tom Robinson’s (the rower) lengthy 4-part blog on his stay in Penrhyn is also a very informative read. Tom is currently on a journey to become the youngest person ever to row across the Pacific Ocean.
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Just 10 square miles with a population of a little over 11,000 people, Tuvalu is a tiny Pacific nation not like any other South Pacific island. Harry Pattison and Joy Archer of SY Oh Joy II visited recently en-route to the Marshall Islands from Tonga and found the islanders to be a delight, genuinely interested in the visiting yacht, the only tourists there.
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By RCCPF Graham Hutt and Di Stoddard
The long-awaited 5th edition of the North Africa Pilot has finally arrived for those interested in cruising North Africa, Malta, the Pelagie Islands, Pantelleria and Giraltar and it doesn’t disappoint. Much has changed in this part of the world in the last 10 years with many new marinas opening up, particularly in Tunisia, and many plans for the same underway in Morocco. Author Graham Hutt has cruised in and around the Mediterranean for over 40 years and worked jointly with circumnavigator Di Stoddard as well as a number of cruising sailors who contributed information to this new edition. Although only a short distance from Europe, the countries covered in this Pilot are in fact a huge leap in cultures. The aim of the Pilot is to not only provide accurate pilotage information, but also to enable an understanding of what to expect so visiting yacht crew can quickly adjust and appreciate the rich culture and history of the area. There is a great deal more historical information than a normal Pilot book, alongside useful harbour plans, thorough details on marinas, harbours and anchorages and introductory sections covering topics specific to the region. Whether sailing across the Mediterranean or down the Atlantic coast on the way to a transatlantic jumping off point, this Pilot is an essential cruising companion.
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How to get more out of Noonsite |
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While the majority of Noonsite continues to be a free resource, there are some ways you can get more enhanced viewing and more involved with the site: |
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Become a Member:
Starting from just $2.99/month you can benefit from enhanced access to key areas of Noonsite via our membership program. Your subscription will help keep the site on the web as part of a growing community of supporters. Our free membership is available to all but does come with a ‘fair use’ policy limiting access to country formalities each month. Enjoy unlimited access via our Basic Membership for just $2.99 a month, which also gives you the Noonsite community map, where you can view at a glance marine services worldwide, ports of entry and post your favorite anchorages. Noonsite Premium Membership add offline access to port and country formalities information to use when on passage.
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