WHERE TO NEXT?

Good morning Traveler,


Last Sunday it was rainy and humid in NH. Not an ideal summer day. But it was the perfect opportunity to remind myself of our recent trip to Italy.


Out came the pasta machine and the Italian cookbooks. I recruited my son, Trevor, to help me make homemade fettuccine in a wild mushroom cream sauce and prepped the potatoes for sweet potato gnocchi.


Cooking is one of the ways I reminisce about a trip. Another is using small momentos I brought home with me. On this trip two of these came from my bike trip on the Ponale Road with my guide Giovanni (read about it in the Highlight below). We made a quick stop about 3/4 of the way up the mountain at the Panorama Cafe. They served peanuts in a little glass, beacon-shaped Campari soda jar which I loved!


We each ordered a beer (even smaller than a caña in Spain, as it was not quite 11am so a larger one was unwarranted!) and I loved the tiny beer glass.


When we left I asked the bartender if I could buy them. She said generously said (in Italian) - they are yours. Now they are two of my favorite items from the trip and I know will forever remind me of my amazing bike ride that day.


Jason chose to bring home some bottles of Brunello, which is another favorite way to remember a trip. Often when traveling you can get wines that never make it to the States, and that makes them extra special.


As with most places, in Lake Garda there are a wide variety of accommodations to choose from. Jessie and I love being able to walk to town so we chose to stay at the Lido Palace in the town of Riva del Garda.


The town is charming! Full of gelaterias, narrow pedestrian streets lined with outdoor cafes, small boutiques and shops full of lemon and pasta products.


With 90+ degree temperatures and lots of sunshine, the weather was perfect for laying by the hotel pool, lounging on the beach people watching, taking a dip in the lake and eating gelato.


The lake was FULL of people - laying in the sun, teenagers jumping off a pier into the water, people sailing, on eFoils, windsurfing, kite surfing, kayaking and taking out paddleboats with slides, walking and biking the lakeside promenade. It felt like an idyllic summer destination! I was pleasantly surprised by how many Italians there were as it all felt very authentic.


Nighttime was just as beautiful and fun with people out for a stroll, cafes full of diners enjoying late night meals, music playing and a festive mood all around.


The food and gelato we had on this trip were all so delicious!

The view from our balcony

stuffed zucchini blossoms and watermelon gelée

I'd planned on us going canyoning, which is something our whole family enjoys. This made us both miss Jason, Allison and Trevor even more (they'd gone home after the Dolomites). We knew they would also love it here.


The canyoning required 2!! wetsuits so we knew the water would be cold. But given the heat, the cold water felt so refreshing!


Before...

And during...

Our guide, Alessandro, had us do a lot of rappelling down waterfalls, which I strongly prefer to jumping! It was so refreshing and fun and a great complement to stylish Lake Garda experience.


Italy has so many beautiful places to visit, it's hard to decide where to go. I highly encourage you to consider Lake Garda for a few days (or a week) during a future visit!

Have you been paying attention to the travel inspiration and tips in the articles we share? Test your knowledge with this fun QUIZ my friend put together. Let me know if you get 100% correct.

This week's inspiring articles include the 50 greatest luxury hotels on Earth, the best country for expats to live and work abroad, favorite glamping destinations, the best speakeasy bars and fun destinations for birthday celebrations.


The information articles include details on tumbling airfare prices, traveling with toddlers and an incredible video of two porcupine parents defending their babies against a leopard (it's fascinating to watch!).


I also answer the puzzling question about why sometimes you can check-in in advance for international flights and other times you can't.


I hope you are enjoying your summer wherever you are!

Warmly,

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Below:

  • This week's highlight - Old Ponale Road on Lake Garda
  • Where to Next? Hotel Lutetia in Paris
  • Articles to Inspire+Inform
  • Q&A Why can I sometimes check in ahead for an international flight and other times I can't?

OLD PONALE ROAD ON LAKE GARDA

I knew about Old Ponale Road before we went to Lake Garda. But there's nothing like experiencing it yourself.


Old Ponale Road is an historic road that passes through a series of tunnels from WWI. It was originally built starting in 1848 to connect Riva del Garda with Valle di Ledro.


You can hike it or you can bike it. The road takes you to a lot of places including the Ponale waterfall but there is beauty at every turn along the way. I chose to bike it. Originally I thought I would borrow a bike from my hotel and go out on my own early in the morning. But instead I opted to go with my via ferrata guide, Giovanni and I was glad I did.

What's it like? You climb climb climb. Weaving through tunnels, under rock ceilings that were blown out two centuries ago and next to steep cliffs. The views are spectacular.


Part way up we passed a restaurant perched on the cliff, a great spot for a drink. But it was Tuesday and they are closed on Tuesdays. So we keep going.

Switchback after switchback - rocky road to smooth asphalt, the surface varies but the views remain stellar.


I found a YouTube video filmed by a drone that gives you a more 3D perspective on the beauty of the ride.


At one point I asked Giovanni to point out where the via ferrata was (I was originally going to scale that with him but changed my mind to the bike ride instead). I had a pang of regret. The views from there would surely be over the top incredible! So I've put it on the list for my next visit.

Not even an hour into the ride we reach the town of Pregasina, where we choose to stop for a refreshing cold beer.


On the bike again, climbing climbing climbing. We reach a signpost and knew we were getting close to the top.

We eventually reach the point where Giovanni tells me we leave our bikes and hike the last 10 minutes to our final spot.


Punta Larici.


360 degree views all around. The day was hazy, so I knew the beauty was muted a bit. But even with that it was worth the effort!

I love mountain biking uphill to get a great workout. I also love the descent, particularly if it's on smooth, winding surfaces. Only part of this route has that surface, and I loved every bit of it!

A few tips for your future ride:

  • wear biking gloves
  • plan extra time for taking photos and a cold drink
  • go in the later afternoon (5pm+) if you prefer the shade
  • or go early in the morning to have fewer people
  • go with a guide to hear stories about the history behind the route and learn even more about the area of Lake Garda

🌟 In June, our clients celebrated a special birthday in Paris.  They stayed at the Hotel Lutetia, known as the only grand hotel on the Left Bank. 

 

Why is the Hotel Lutetia so special?

  • Built in 1910 to house merchants and clients of the nearby Le Bon MarchĂ©, the building is full of history. Picasso and Matisse have stayed here and James Joyce and Josephine Baker performed regularly. 
  • Perfectly located in the heart of the Saint-Germain-des-Pres neighborhood and walkable to top sights around town.
  • Many of the rooms and suites have trellised balconies with views of the Eiffel Tower. 

 

 Do as much or as little as you like:

  • The large Akasha spa includes treatment rooms, gym, fitness classes, sauna and 17 meter pool.
  • Surrounded by some of the best shops in Paris, plan a shopping day with a locally connected personal shopper to get you in the best boutiques.
  • Dine like a Parisian at the hotel’s five dining venues.  The Brasserie Lutetia is a Left Bank favorite, with oysters, snails, caviar, tartare and filet. 

 

‼️ Don’t miss…..the impressive Presidential Suite, with a full kitchen (used by your dedicated chef), dining room and large balcony with beautiful views of the Eiffel Tower and Paris skyline. 


REMINDER: the summer Olympics will be in Paris next summer so if you want to visit plan ahead and keep away from the Olympics dates.

đź“· Hotel Lutetia

Check out Hotel Lutetia rates and availability here
 

INSPIRATION


The 50 Greatest Luxury Hotels on Earth, Robb Report

(I have been to or sent clients to so many of these. Favorites from London to New Zealand to Botswana to Alaska)


This Is the Best Country for Expats to Live and Work Abroad, AFAR


How the super-wealthy do glamping holidays, The Telegraph


Travel + Leisure Readers’ 10 Favorite Safari Lodges in Africa of 2023, T&L


The World’s 15 Best Glamping Retreats, AFAR

(some of my favorites are listed!)


Travel + Leisure Readers' 100 Favorite Hotels in the World for 2023, T&L


The Outstanding in the Field Dinner Series Is Back—and You Can Still Get Tickets, AFAR


One of Italy’s Most Acclaimed Restaurants Is Opening in New York City, Robb Report


The case for taking the same vacation every year, Washington Post


11 Best Places to Go for Your Birthday, Condé Nast Traveler


18 Best Speakeasy Bars Across America, Architectural Digest


These Are Italy's Most Expensive Hotel Suites, Condé Nast Traveler


Summer bliss in Gstaad: Wild swimming, farm-to-fork fondue and local immersion, Wanderlust


INFORMATION


Airfares tumble, helping bring down overall inflation, NYT


Passport delays are derailing travel. What to know about getting yours, Washington Post


Is a big trip with your toddler worth it? What memory experts say, Washington Post


I've Lived On Five Continents. Here's What You Should Know If You're Interested In The Expat Experience, Essence


Ask Skift: Why Has Travel Gotten So Expensive?, Skift


SAFARIS


Porcupine Family Defends Themselves Against Leopard, video

(watch this! fascinating!)


What is skiplagging? All about the travel hack airlines hate, Washington Post



(If you aren't able to access an NYT or Washington Post article, send me a note and I'll send it to you in a PDF.)

Over the years I've had several clients a bit nervous because they like to check in online the day before their flight but some international flights don't allow it and some do. I've also personally experienced both. So I put this question to the air experts and their answer is below.


QUESTION: Why can I sometimes check in ahead for an international flight and other times I can't?


ANSWER: That’s a great question and one that we do see from time to time. There is no definitive reason for it.


Some airlines may allow advanced check-in because they do not want to burden the initial counter staff to do full passport checks along with their other duties. 


However, once someone has a boarding pass via check in there is no guarantee airline staff will see them until the gate area. Forcing manual check at the counter releases the gate agents from the requirement and puts it back on the check-in desk/bag check where they are often more equipped to handle the process.


If you are someone who likes to check-in in advance, don't be worried if it's not allowed. There's nothing to do about it except arrive at the airport with plenty of time so you have a relaxing experience.

 
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