Click here for the Kumihimo Beaded "Lots of Dots" Necklace Kit

I did some experimenting this month and thought I would share what I learned. I braid on both a disk and a Marudai. Equal amounts on both. They are both fantastic tools. One is not better than the other. The Marudai is not more advanced than the disk and the disk is not just for beginners. If you have not tried both, alot, you should. I would say that, most often, I start out trying new things on the disk because it is so convenient. I just grab it and start playing. When I have a new design figured out, I may braid my samples on the Marudai because it is alot faster. When I make a new kit, I braid at least one full sample on the Disk so I can see how the braid "behaves" and then I braid may additional samples on the Marudai because it is twice as fast. 

The issue of weights came into play. I am talking about counterweights. These are the weights that counter the weight of the tama on the Marudai or the weight you  might attach to the tail of your braid on a disk. 

I don't use a weight when I braid on the disk Okay, maybe once in awhile if I am doing something out of the ordinary, I might experiment with a weight. But not too often. You  see, the disk was designed with the assumption that the slots in the foam disk are tight enough to hold the cords under perfect tension. Granted, not all disks are created equal. Makiko Tada's Hamanaka Disks are probably the best and Beadsmith Disks are also quite good and relatively inexpensive. I sell the Beadsmith Mini for $3 and the Beadsmith Thick Mini for $3.75. When using a foam disk, I find that a weight is usually not necessary. If you do use a weight, you might find that too much weight will create a softer more flexible braid while no weight will produce a firmer braid. 

Now, on the Marudai, counterweight is a different story. The counterweight (in the center) counterbalances the weight of the tama that hang from the mirror (top surface) of the Marudai. Here, counterweight is   very essential. With many braids, a good starting point, unless you are instructed otherwise, is to figure that the counterweight should be half the weight of the tama (or 50%). For example, if I have 8 tama at 70 grams each (560 grams total) my counterweight will start at 280 grams (half or 50% of 560).  This is a starting point. When I begin braiding, I check my braid and add or subtract weight if I feel it is needed. I do this "experimenting" will "all fiber" and "all beaded" braids.

For the June Kit of the Month, I made 6 all beaded necklaces with "Lots of Dots". Half were braided on the Disk and half on the Marudai. On the Marudai, I experimented with the counterweight and found that 50% counterweight made for a longer, softer beaded braid while less weight made for a firmer and shorter braid.  I played with the counterweights on the third sample and found perfection. Third times the charm. 

I braided the other samples on the foam disk and I did not use a counterweight. These necklaces were all very consistent with each other. When I braid with beads on a foam disk, I use C-Lon Bead Cord with 8/0 seed beads and C-Lon Tex 400 with 6/0 seed beads. When I braid with C-Lon Bead Cord and C-Lon Tex 400, I use the Beadsmith THICK mini disk. The thickness of the disks prevents the thinner beadcord from slipping. 

Have any thought on braiding that you would like to share? Send me an email at  karen@whataknit.com

Happy Braiding.

Don't be afraid to experiment to just see what happens.