Rough diamond crystal. Transmitted and reflected light. Image by Gary Roskin. Diamond provided by AMGAD.

Issue 25, July 14, 2023
Last Newsletter's Top Three Features!
Most notable features from our last report were…

1.) FURA Investing in Colombia
Coscuez Emerald Auctions Benefit Local Workforce
*Our investments in Colombia exceeds $100 million.
*Our investments directly benefit more than 700 families and impact the lives of more than 10,000 people.

2.) When "Crystal" was Crystal
Upcoming Auction - Crystal Candlesticks and more
Rock crystal can be such an underappreciated gem material, with all of the other gem materials available today.

3.) Yogi's Rings Presumed Melted
Hall of Famer's Jewels Stolen and Destroyed?
These rings have value not just from the gold and diamonds, but for their provenance.

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Inaugural LGD Symposium a Success
Interviews Highlight Best Directions for the Sector
Chatham Gives Keynote Address
It was the inaugural LGD Symposium, held in Dubai this past Monday.

Created Diamond stakeholders discussed how best to market product.

Tom Chatham, Chairman of the board at Chatham Created Gems & Diamonds, Inc., author of a new book Chatham Legacy - an American Story, and a name synonymous with lab grown created gems, tells the approximately 285 attendees that they need to stop using Rapaport. Forget about sustainability, develop a brand, and ignore natural.

Panelist Nirav Jogani, Director and Vice Chairman, RSM Astute and Lemon Consultech Groups, agreed with Chatham. He says that comparing Lab Grown Diamonds to the natural diamond market is not the way to go. If we continue down that path, LGD’s will cannibalize the sale of natural diamonds, and prices will continue to fall.

Gemological Importance at the Auction
Sotheby's Color Spectacular
Changing it Up
Wednesday's Hong Kong auction (July 12) had SO much going on that it is impossible to cover it in just one post.

It was filled with fabulous jewels by Graff, Winston, Buccellati, Bulgari, Hemmerle, Boucheron, Tiffany, Cartier, and Van Cleef & Arpels, along with very impressive diamonds, rubies, natural pearls, and, of course, being in Hong Kong, jadeite.

But here in this post, Changing It Up, we want to talk about the jewels that feature color change gems! As many as there were in one auction (9), one might incorrectly assume that these phenomenal gems are common place. They are not.

There was even a Chameleon Diamond! (Not sure what that is? Tap into this feature.)

Noteworthy International Colored Gemstone News
Plans to Participate in Jaipur Congress
It has been announced that the American Gem Trade Association (AGTA) has resumed its membership in The World Jewellery Confederation (CIBJO) after an absence of seven years.

The decision comes ahead of the 2023 CIBJO Congress, which will take place October 3–5 in Jaipur, India, a key colored gemstone manufacturing and trade center. It has been noted that AGTA will participate in the Jaipur Congress.

Star Gazing!
More Red Carpet - Who Wore What Jewels
Best Jewelry At The 2023 AmfAR Gala

As Cannes comes to a close, WWWJewels rounds up their red carpet coverage at the famous French film festival with the best jewelry spotted at its closing ceremony and at the iconic 2023 amfAR gala.

amfAR, the Foundation for AIDS Research, is one of the world’s leading nonprofit organizations dedicated to the support of AIDS research, HIV prevention, treatment education, and advocacy.

Big Names, Big Color, & Big Natural Pearls
... and a Big Jigha!

More from the Hong Kong Sotheby's sale, as we look at the big brands, like Graff, Winston, Buccellati, Bulgari, Hemmerle, Boucheron, Tiffany, Cartier, and Van Cleef & Arpels. We also looked at a few very impressive diamonds, rubies, natural pearls, and, of course, being in Hong Kong, jadeite.

Cartier sold well with most being sold within the estimated range (the same being true for Graff, Boucheron, Winston, VCA, and Tiffany), with the exception of several Cartier 'Panthères' that just peaked over the high estimates. 

More Star Gazing!
14 K-Pop Stars
Who Love Their Diamond Jewellery
Only Natural Diamonds

BlackPink, BTS, Monsta X, Girls Generation, Twice, Exo, New Jeans, aespa, ... if you are not familiar with these K-Pop groups, then listen up. They are not only superstars, they are high jewelry brand ambassadors, and have been sporting their favorite brand since 2021.

Tiffany & Co., Chanel, Cartier, Bulgari, Louis Vuitton, Chaumet, and Dior all know the power of K-Pop and fandom.

Think Fast!
Last day to nominate!
AGA Bonanno Award Nominations Due NOW!
The Accredited Gemologists Association is currently seeking nominations for the Antonio C. Bonanno Award for Excellence in Gemology. This prestigious award recognizes individuals for their major contributions to the field of gemology.

A Smart Collaboration
Colorado School of Mines & American Gem Trade Association strike strategic relationship
In a multiyear project, Mines researchers will examine supply chain for at least 10 colored gemstones — sapphire, ruby, emerald, tanzanite and more.

**CIBJO Membership renewed... "To celebrate and cement the reignited partnership, Collins, Ford, and Colorado of Mines (Mines) Ph.D. Student Jenna White will provide an exclusive update on the AGTA and Mines’ Transparent & Traceable Gemstone Supply Chains Research Project at the CIBJO Jaipur Congress. The initial stage, including site visits to Kenya, Tanzania, Madagascar, Sri Lanka, and Nigeria, will have just concluded prior to the Jaipur Congress. The session will serve as an opportunity for the team to share insights prior to the full research release planned for AGTA GemFair Tucson in February 2024. The goal of the project is to identify best practices specific to the colored stone industry and improve transparency and traceability, ethics, environmental sustainability, and human rights within it."

Read more about this partnership here...

February 7th

Colorado School of Mines and the American Gem Trade Association (AGTA) unveiled a long-term strategic relationship with an unparalleled multiyear research project that examines colored gemstone supply chains in Kenya, Tanzania, Madagascar, Nigeria and Sri Lanka.

The goal is to identify best practices specific to the colored stone industry and improve transparency and traceability, ethics, environmental sustainability, and human rights within it. The name of the project is the “Transparent and Traceable Gemstone Supply Chains Initiative.”

More Gemological Importance at the Auction
Sotheby's: The Perfect Diamond - Yes, Perfect!
There was a time when many jewelers claimed their diamonds to be "blue-white and perfect." And because most of those diamonds were not, the FTC stepped in to enforce guidelines on what the jewelry industry could say.

Contrary to popular belief, you can call a diamond "perfect." But, a "perfect" diamond must be... well, "perfect."

This 11.69 carat round brilliant, accompanied by GIA report #6227630618, set in a classic Tiffany 6-prong platinum mounting, is "perfect."

It is estimated to sell between 8 and 11 million Hong Kong dollars.

An Important Gem Deserves an Important Video. So what happened?
The Forever Star-dusty Diamond
A Great Gem Deserves a Great Shot

To get a great shot, you need to place the jewel in the right position. The lights should land on the jewel exactly how you plan. And the jewel must be clean. 

This is just a personal observation, highlighting the videographer's lack of patience.

The gem seen here is a 15 carat D Internally Flawless DeBeers Forevermark. A diamond this important should have an important video. But unfortunately, the diamond was not cleaned well, and .... well, it shows.

Initiatives in Art and Culture (IAC)
13th Annual International Conference on Gold and Diamonds
"Maintaining Purpose"

IAC’s 13th Annual Gold + Diamond Conference
July 17 – 19, 2023

Bohemian National Hall
321 E 73rd St, New York, NY

Join leading experts in Maintaining Purpose, a wide-ranging look at the jewelry, precious metals, and diamond industries. Jewelry is our lens, with a twin focus on artistry and responsible practice. A focus, we suggest, unique to IAC.

All of us, from those upstream in supply chains to those realizing an artistic vision in fine jewelry, must maintain purpose: we must do the work, ever-committed to effecting the change we seek.

Thus, conscious of the imperative to balance the needs of current and future generations, we explore varied declarations of purpose and principle on responsible practice and cultural preservation and how to harmonize and operationalize them, taking action, driven by aspiration. We consider new technologies for extraction and sourcing, new mine-to-market models, and new approaches to training, whether the next generation of jewelers or miners. Always with an eye to meeting evolving environmental and climate challenges.

Perhaps most fundamentally, we investigate the critical question of what constitutes luxury in an age of responsible practice.

The conference is highlighted by the participation of jewelers Silvia Furmanovich, Satta Matturi, and Pippa Small.

During the conference, IAC will present its 6th annual award for Leadership in Responsible Practice and 3rd annual award for Outstanding Contributions to the Diamond and Jewelry Industries.

National Association of Jewelry Appraisers
60th Annual ACEit Mid-Year Education Conference
The NAJA mid-year educational conference schedule is out!

Speaker include:
• Duncan Parker, FGA
• David Atlas, GIA GG
• Sindi Schloss, GIA GG
• Deborah Finleon, GIA GG
• Michael Goldstein
• Gary Roskin, FGA
• Chris Boehner, GIA GG
• Kaitlin Shinnick, GIA GG
• Karin Gross
• Sally Winters, Esq.
• Jessica Dubroc, GIA GG
• Stuart Robertson, GIA GG

• With a special day long session with Leon Castner: USPAP

CGA Keynote Speaker: Edward Asscher
Canadian Gemmological Association presents Past-President of the World Diamond Council
Edward Asscher, Past-President of the World Diamond Council will give the keynote address at the Canadian Gemmological Conference in Vancouver, BC, October 20-22. 

Edward will discuss the challenges and opportunities that face the trade today.

Come join Edward Asscher, who heads the world’s most famous diamond family at the Gem Conference in October!

For details visit the ‘2023 Gem Conference’ page at:

Click Here To Register – See You There!
If you still need more ...
Show-Stopping High Jewelry
Top Contenders for the Emmys Red Carpet
BalenciagaSchiaparelli and other legendary Parisian houses may draw the lion’s share of attention during July’s Paris Fashion Week, but for gasp-inducing moments, there’s nothing quite like a fancy intense yellow diamond that tops 30 carats.

Initiatives in Art and Culture (IAC)
13th Annual International Conference on Gold and Diamonds
"Maintaining Purpose"
July 17-19, 2023
New York, NY
Bohemian National Hall, Upper East Side
Opening Reception: Heritage Auctions New York, 445 Park Avenue

National Association of Jewelry Appraisers NAJA
60th Annual ACEit Mid-Year Education Conference
August 12-14, 2023
Providence, RI
@ the Hilton Providence

Jewellery Valuers Association
JVA Registered Valuer Conference
September 8-10, 2023
Holywell Park, Loughborough University

World Jewellery Confederation CIBJO
Congress 2023
Jaipur, India
October 3rd - 5th
Registration for CIBJO Congress 2023 now open

Greetings from the news desk!

It is interesting to read other reports on the State of the Art Jewelry Summit. We were all in the same room and yet came away with different outlooks. This is of course completely understandable as there were so many topics and discussions in just one day. So we focus on the topics that peak our interest, and leave the other subjects to someone else. This is exactly what we are doing here in the Roskin Gem News Report.

We know that climate change, the environment, and poverty are important, but we just do not see them as being the focus of the gem & jewelry industry. Don't misunderstand, of course we want to tackle these issues, and if in our business we can affect change in these areas, even if only by a tiny amount, then we should.

What we did hear at the summit, subjects on which the industry should focus, are responsible sourcing, and social responsibility. Sometimes these topics are hidden in the call to apply for certification. But most were passionate about how they have personally handled the challenge, and their suggestions as to how you might want to get started.

Which gets us to the point: Get started. If you have been waiting for your invitation, consider this it.

Please tell your vendors we would like them to
support the report and advertise!😊

As always, stay informed and keep in touch. I'd like to know where you've been and what gems you've seen.

We will continue to post features on the website, so feel free to log on to the Roskin Gem News Magazine any time at
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I will see you again SOON!

Stay safe and stay healthy!

Gary Roskin
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